PROJECTSPainted figures, sculptures and scale modeling projects

First, I will fix neodymium magnets (3 mm in diameter and 1 mm high) to the base of the model, using epoxy putty and cyanoacrylate.

With the two components of putty mixed, I make two little balls and stick them to the bottom of the plastic base, ensuring that part of the volume of putty sticks out.

Then, I flatten that excess of putty by pushing the base against a flat surface (you have to move the base to the sides, to prevent the putty from sticking to the surface).

To ensure maximum adhesion, I slightly push the limits of the putty against the base.

Now I deposit a small drop of cyanoacrylate in the center of the putty and on top of it, I put a magnet (be careful, the magnets are attracted to each other if they are put very close together). In the same way as before, we push the base against a flat surface to adjust the magnets to the proper height and move the base to avoid that the excess of glue makes them stick to the surface.

Now, let the putty dry and, if we want, we can give an extra layer of cyanoacrylate on the magnet and putty, to ensure a good extra fixation.

Next step: we put a drop of paint on each magnet and before it dries, we mark its position on the exposition or scenic base.

With the help of a hand drill, we drill the center of each paint mark.

Now, with a drill of a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the magnet, we make the hole (with a hand drill or an electric one).

We have to try that the orifice has a depth the most adjusted posible to the height of the magnet, being better if it´s a little below the edge of the wood than above. To do this, before using glue, check that the magnets fit well in the holes, without protruding anything.

Now we glue the magnets, but we must try not to get the wrong side of the magnet up: I usually mark with paint the side that goes down, as seen in the photo.

We can now glue them with cyanoacrylate and once dry, sand the surface to remove traces of glue.

To ensure maximum fixation, I even add a small amount of putty in the magnet hole, pushing it well with the finger to ensure it enters all the nooks, and that there is no excess. Once dry, we have our model perfectly fixed in its position, to prevent it from falling when moving the base.

Here you can see some examples: a band of Shadespire and units of chaos marines and gretchins, in their bases.

Here, we have a scenic base that we have made and on which we have fixed the miniatures in the same way.

Another usefulness of this system is to fix scenography elements on boards or maps (for Shadespire, Space Hulk, Heroquest, role playing maps, etc.) and make them interchangeable. In the pictures there are several examples.

And a last option that I show is to make multiple miniature bases for units in strategy games (warhammer, in this case). In each base we can include groups of several models.

And in a unit we can include groups of several bases. Thus we can maintain the same position of the miniatures in your unit, being able to disassemble and assemble it comfortably.

It is also possible to add little scenic bases (fillers) or war machines to the whole.

More options: make mixed units of round and square bases.

And even include interchangeable elements to make some scenes more sympathetic or specific.

I hope you like it and, above all, that it was useful