Once mixed bit of pure green putty, we will make it flat, and more or less the size we want to have at the end as result, checking the sizes directly on the miniature. No need to get the exact size at this step, we will only use this as "armature" or "starting point", so it shouldn't be too thick.
Cleaning the armature/starting point
Once putty is fully cured from previous step, we will use the knife to cut the excess to get an overall shape of the cloak.
Inner area of the cloak
Now, we will start forming the folds. After mixing equal parts green stuff putty and Milliput at 50% mix, we will apply strips of this mixture on the cloak wherever you want get folds, first using the metal sculpting tool, and then with color sharpers to unify and form them.
Outer area of the cloak
Once hardened the previous step, we repeat the procedure with the outside Coat, reversing the position of the strips of putty to provide continuity to the folds that have formed on the opposite side. We must remember that this will be the most visible part of the layer so we must take care of the details.
Once putty of previous step is dried, we can go over small mistakes with the knife and sandpaper to smooth and level the forms. Sand the top will also help the adhesion of the putty in the next step.
Final position of the cloak
With the help of some pure green stuff we will put what we have done so far in its final position.
Once putty is dried (to avoid moving the piece from its position), add the mixture of Milliput + GS in the same proportion as in previous steps, so we will sculpt that area of the cloak on the shoulders of the miniature, unifying the shapes of the folds.
Once putty is hard again, we will repeat the process sanding to correct errors and adding water, we will use very fine grain sandpaper to polish the surface, not to mention that we will need to clean the area carefullt after that with soap and water to remove fine powder formed on the figure during this process. We will take care specially of any visible gaps when dried.
And that's all, you may use other proportions or other putties, but working on a single piece by adding or removing, it will be always better and more comfortable than trying to sculpt the hole piece in one go with fresh putty. The process can be accelerated using a heating source for putties, which will harden faster. Using these heaters may deform plastic parts at high temperatures. I hope this tutorial will be useful
This was really useful! I've linked your work in my article about modeling: https://alkony.enerla.net/english/the-nexus/miniatures-nexus/miniature-hobby/miniature-modeling-resources
Fantastic walk through. I especially like the idea of sculpting interior separately from exterior. Waiting between curing is well worth it. I plan to apply this technique to my Skaven warband.